September 29, 2008

Kagurazaka on Sunday Afternoon

Kagurazaka is a lively neighbourhood near Iidabashi Station that is sometimes referred to as "little Kyoto". Whilst that description may not be totally accurate in my opinion, its is a nice little area with plenty of great little places to eat and drink. On Sundays it is closed to traffic, so you can enjoy a quiet stroll up the tree-lined slope.
At the top of the slope is the imposing Akagi Shrine, which is the focus of several festivals throughout the year.

September 26, 2008

Tokyo Mode Gakuen Cocoon Tower


This 50-floor glass and steel structure is the latest addition to the Shinjuku skyscraper district and will house a fashion and design college as well as other shops and offices from what I can understand. Some three years in the making, this distinctive building will be officially opened in the next couple of months.

Umai! (Tasty!)

Sign outside a yakitori restaurant in Shinjuku. If it's recommended by a Blues Brothers lookalike , it's got to be worth a visit!

September 21, 2008

Books: Tokyo Year Zero by David Peace

British writer David Peace has achieved recognition and acclaim with his previous novels, which include the Red Riding Quartet and The Damned United, but this is his first novel set in the Japanese capital where he has lived since 1994.

The story opens of the eve of the Japanese surrender in 1945, with the main protagonist, Detective Minami and some colleagues looking into the discovery of a female corpse in the Shinagawa area. The military police soon find a scapegoat and the case is closed.

Fast forward to a year later, and Minami and his team are called to open a murder hunt after two naked female corpses are discovered in a park having been raped and brutally murdered. As the investigation proceeds, it turns out that there are more than two victims and that some of the killings occurred outside Tokyo.

Whilst the murder investigation is compelling, the real appeal of the book is the way that Peace has evoked the whole atmosphere of darkness, depression and despair that must have existed in the period that immediately followed the war. The picture he paints is of a city full of people on the brink of starvation, with people in official positions desperately trying to reinvent their past in order to avoid the clampdowns and purges, a city with a thriving black market, pan pan girls and occupation forces.

Minami himself is a flawed hero, and during his investigations he struggles with his own demons, that continuously haunt him. He ponders on his own (possibly criminal) involvement in the war in China, his failing to his wife and children, his obsession with his mistress, his obligations to a gang leader who keeps him supplied with sedatives, as well as his concerns over which of his colleagues are working against him.

Some may find the staccato sentences and use of Japanese onomatopoeia ("Gari gari. I itch, I scratch") a bit irritating, but over time it helps the narrative falls into a kind of rhythm and it also contributes to the reader's increasing awareness of just how unstable Minami's psyche has become.

The actual murders are based on a real life serial killer, and the author uses this story very well to open a window on to a society trying to pick itself up after a very damaging defeat. It's made me want to look into this period further and I'm also looking forward to the next installment from Peace in what has been billed as a trilogy.

September 10, 2008

Visions of Violet

Odyssey Revised - The Fabulous Three
Spin It Jig - Smokey Brooks
Song For Ray - Bronx River Parkway
That Gut Feeling - TM Juke & The Jack Baker Trio feat. Andreya Triana
Extension - Re-Trick
Visions of Violet - Jose James feat Flying Lotus
Wake Up - Yasumasa Kumagai
Better Git In Your Soul - Charles Mingus
Deep Eight - Johnny Griffin
Tsui So - indigo jam unit

September 08, 2008

Porky Little Devil

Graffiti art at the entrance to Miyashita Koen in Shibuya.

Down and Out in Shibuya

The homeless in Japan will often assemble bits of scrap material and the ubiquitous blue plastic sheeting to make their own shacks on public land, with some even running cables from public sources to power televisions or other gadgets. These hovels are in Miyashita Koen in Shibuya next to the Yamanote line tracks.

Storm Clouds in Ginza

Ginza on Sunday afternoon, just before the rain started.

Jimmy Onishi Exhibition in Ginza

Jimmy Onishi is a Japanese comedian turned painter, though he concentrates his efforts mainly on his art these days. He is known internationally for the 'ten ten ten' clip on YouTube (click here to view) that was an excerpt from a TV comedy special. As a painter, he is famous for his very colourful dreamlike images that have both admirers and detractors. There is little doubt, though, that he has been very successful with his artwork, which includes both acrylics and oil paintings as well as some sculpture work.

This month he has a short exhibition of his work from the last ten or so years at the Mitsukoshi department store in Ginza and I popped along to have a look on Sunday. As with any exhibition of a well-known artist in Japan, it was a popular draw and there was a 50-minute wait just to buy tickets. After that it was a slow shuffle in single file through the gallery to look at the many works on display.

All of the works were very colourful, and you can see a clear progression in both style and technique as time passes. Personally, I felt that some pieces worked very well, while others were overly busy with detail.

After viewing the exhibition, there was the chance to buy the merchandise (obligatory with any exhibition anywhere these days) from the 'Jimmy Collection'. My money stayed in my pocket, however.

A fun exhibition on the whole.



September 05, 2008

The Rebirth of ... Dense(?)

"Dense Through Being Cool"
Sticker spotted in Shibuya.

September 02, 2008

Footprints

Footprints - Miles Davis
Vortex - Max Grunhard Quintet
Desert Fairy Princess - Adele Sebastien
Crisis - Bottom Rhythm Jam
Boom Clicky Boom Klack - Sonar Kollektiv Orchester

Children's Song - The Third Eye
Baby I Love You - The Kadri Six feat Lamia
War - Carla Whitney
All We Need Is Another Chance - The Escorts
Where Would You Be - Yaw

August 27, 2008

Books: Rosa by Jonathan Rabb

Berlin in the months after the end of World War I. The Kaiser has fled after the defeat and left a political vacuum in his wake. Late in 1918 was an attempted socialist revolution led by the Spartakus Party with Karl Liebknecht and Rosa Luxembourg as its leaders. The revolution was crushed and the clampdown severe.

It's against this backdrop that Jonathan Rabb's third novel opens. Several women have been found murdered in the poorer parts of town, all with identical stab wounds on their back, and world-weary detective Nikolai Hoffner is on the case. When the next victim that is discovered turns out to be Rosa Luxembourg, the case takes on a whole different twist, but Hoffner isn't prepared to listen to advice from his seniors and leave it all to the Political Police, or Polpo.

The case is seemingly solved and Hoffner and his assistant are the toast of the town, but the political intrigue persists, and Hoffner cannot leave the case alone. As he probes deeper he encounters ever-increasing dangers and has time to reflect on certain life choices he has made.

Rabb superbly recreates the Berlin of the era, with its cold, dark and dangerous streets, and the political tensions of the time have clearly been well-researched. His hero, Hoffner, the flawed human being with brilliant powers of detection makes for a classic lead, and the whole novel almost suggests something from a Fritz Lang film, or another classic noir director.

An utterly absorbing read.

"Yatosa! Yatosa!"

I enjoyed it as always, but paid for being out in the wet for so long, as I was laid up with a temperature for a couple of days after the event.













August 18, 2008

Material Curse

Rip A Dip - Latin Jazz Quintet
Book's Bossa - Donald Byrd
Lothar - Schema Sextet
First Lady - Soil & "Pimp" Sessions
Brotherhood - Sleep Walker
Shadowlands - Part-Time Heroes feat. Liane Carroll

Soul Machine - The Meters
Baby, I Love You - Vise
Material Curse - DJ Mitsu The Beats feat. Promoe

Woman To Man - Tony Allen feat. Damon Albarn & Ty

August 15, 2008

Yasukuni Shrine

August 15th is the day that the Japanese remember the end of World War Two, and each year the enormous Yasukuni Shrine is the focus of controversy and media attention. Visits by former Prime Minister, Junichiro Koizumi, despite protests from China and Korea made sure that the shrine was featured on the news worldwide. The present incumbent, however, stayed away this year.

It should be remembered that for most Japanese people the shrine serves as a place to honour soldiers who have died in battle for their country (a bit like the Cenotaph), though the war museum in the grounds and the fact that among the enshrined soldiers are some A-listed war criminals, means that it is a controversial place.

Every year on August 15th, anti-war left wingers, nationalist right wingers and war veterans gather at the shrine trying to out shout each other with their rousing speeches. The right wing groups also drive around in their black buses daubed with slogans and flags with nationalist songs blaring from their speakers. All quite a circus.

I popped along to have a look during my lunch break today in the searing heat, and whilst I missed the face offs between the left wingers and right wingers, there were TV crews aplenty and masses of people going to pay their respects.
Some of the veterans looked as though they were happy to go back in time and don their uniform.
An out of tune voice and a total lack of skill on the shamisen wasn't going to stop this guy singing his heart out.
Police talk with some flag toting teenage thugs (on bicycles) outside the gates of the shrine.

August 11, 2008

Tokyo Ganbanyoku

Despite the heat and humidity outside, I decided today to head to Asagaya to Tokyo Ganbanyoku, to pay for the privilege of sweating even more than usual. Sounds odd, I know, but it is a relaxing and refreshing experience.

A ganbanyoku is similar to a sauna, but not as intense. You change into some light cotton clothes and lie on a heated flat stone, and very soon the sweat starts pouring off you. After about fifteen minutes you take a break, drink some water, and then head back in for more, and so on. It is supposed to have a detoxifying effect as well as being good for your skin. I can't say for certain if that's true, but I certain felt better afterwards.

A Symbol of Summer

If the heat and humidity aren't big enough clues, you really know it's summer in Japan when you see this flag outside cafes and eateries or on festival stalls. This is the kanji for 'ice' and this particular flag means that the establishment in question is selling kakigori, which is crushed ice with a lurid coloured fruit-flavoured syrup.

Hair Salon in Kyoto

A nice trim behind, please.

August 08, 2008

Dinner on Ponto-cho Dori

On Tuesday evening I headed out for dinner with my colleagues and we opted for a very Kyoto experience and had dinner at a small restaurant on Ponto-cho Dori called Aritsune, that specialises in Kyoto-style steamed dishes.

It was a very relaxing and slow-food experience, with the meal lasting well over three hours. The food was incredibly healthy and delicious to boot. Also, once the owner realised we could all speak Japanese, he gave a very detailed explanation of every dish.

If you happening to be in Kyoto I can thoroughly recommend this restaurant ~ really friendly and some of the best food you can hope to taste.From left to right, mackerel, salmon cartilage and the roe of some fish I can't remember
Steamed vegetables
A selection of sashimi
Steamed pork with asparagus

Aubergine and ginger soup
Steamed fish and tofu
A serving of rice
Steamed chocolate cake for dessert
The owner showing us out of his restaurant after a three hour feast.