Shop sign in Nakano Broadway

A state-of-the-art shopping mall about 40 years ago, Nakano Broadway is now a shopping centre that could be called geek heaven. Visit the second or third floors and you will be surrounded by shops selling manga, cult books, plastic figures, costumes and so on. I usually go there to visit the CD shop Recomints and nearby is a book shop that has the above sign outside.

Do you dare go in?

Bar near Koenji Station

Native & Shima and Shikou Duo live at Tower Records Shinjuku

Friday night saw me hot footing down to Tower Records in Shinjuku after work to catch a free in-store gig. First on were Shima & Shikou Duo, a trumpet and piano combo playing jazz-influenced tunes. They opened with their version of Dizzy Gillespie's 'Night in Tunisia' , and played a couple of other selections from their album 'Road To The Deep North', which were very enjoyable.

After a very short break it was time for Native to take the stage and play three tracks to promote their new album. Frontman Tomoyoshi Nakamura got to display his talents on flute, alto and soprano sax over the course of the short set. They started with 'Mirage' and also played 'The Edge of Daylight' before closing with the title track. A great little gig, especially since it was free, and I'm certainly looking forward to the album release party gig in March.

Learning To Fly

Spirits Up Above - Jose James
Dark Days - Fat Freddys Drop
Is That Enough - Marvin Gaye
King Charles - The Budos Band
Ritual - Nico Gomez & His Afro Percussion Inc
Learning To Fly - Andrea Sabatini Quintet
The Edge Of Daylight - Native
Songs Without Words - Dan Ecclestone Band
Tsui To - indigo jam unit
Our Lives Are Shaped By What We Love - Odyssey

Hakone - Day 2 - POLA Museum of Art

One of the best attractions at Hakone has to be the POLA Museum of Art. Housed in a wonderfully-designed building, the POLA Museum has one of the largest private collections of Western art in Japan. It opened in 2002 and at the moment they are running a special exhibition to commemorate the 5th anniversary ~ Monet and French Landscape. It was an impressive exhibition with several works by Monet including some of his water lily paintings, a view of Rouen Cathedral and also the Houses of Parliament in London. Other well-known painters with works on display were Cezanne, Renoir, Sisley, Pissarro, Sisley and Rousseau. A very enjoyable way to spend the morning.

Of course the POLA has the obligatory museum shop with postcards, posters and so on, which all generate a lot of income for artists or their estates (Vettriano is said to do very well from such royalties). One thing that did catch my eye though were the artist rag dolls. There was a kindly looking grandfather type with a big white beard, obviously Monet, and a black haired women with big earrings, headscarf and big colourful skirt for Frida Kahlo. My personal favourite, however, was the angry-looking flame-haired man with a detachable ear! Had it been cheaper than 3000 yen, I would have been tempted by the sheer kitschiness of it.

Hakone - Day 1

Standing by the lake
Not only was Hakone full of Japanese people geting away for the long weekend, there were also plenty of Chinese tourists taking New Year breaks

Hakone - Day 1

A weekend with a national holiday tacked on is the perfect excuse to get away, and this weekend just gone, I decided to see Hakone in winter. It was a beautiful day on Sunday and, following Saturday's snowfall, there was a nice blanket of white over the countryside.

First stop on this trip was Hakone Shrine next to Lake Ashi. Shrouded in trees, the shrine is invisible from afar save the huge tori on the on the lakeside, but makes a nice spot to visit even if you don't have any prayers to offer up to the deities.

A short bus ride away is the Hakone Checkpoint. This is an attraction and museum on the site of what was an old check point in the Edo period, monitoring people travelling to and from Edo (now Tokyo). The building that stands now is a replica of the old site, and it seems there is nothing of the original building still standing. As an attraction I personally felt it was a disappointment and that the plaster of Paris horse models in the stables together with sound effects tapes were unnecessary.

From there it was lunch and then back round to the port and across the lake on the pirate ship (again) and again with clear skies, there was an amazing view of Mount Fuji.

Twin Star, Blue Sky

Bird in Shiba Koen

There was a time, long ago when I was at primary school, when I could probably tell you what type of bird this was. I had an RSPB book of birds (which I think I got by saving peanut butter labels) that I spent hours poring over, though I eventually lost interest. Last week when I saw this walking through Shiba Koen its colour caught my eye, but that was about all.

Books: The Big Nowhere by James Ellroy

Part of the LA Quartet, The Big Nowhere is set in Los Angeles in 1950 ~ a world of Hollywood sleaze, corrupt police, influential gangsters and the communist purges. Against this backdrop wee have a young cop hoping to make his name cracking a series of gay killings; a member of the D.A.'s office trying to climb the ladder on the red purge; and an ex-cop-cum now working as pimp to Howard Hughes who will take on any kind of work for a fast buck. The three are drawn together in a web of deceit and corruption as they each pursue their goals.

However this is more than just a straightforward crime novel. It is a masterful recreation of an era gone by with an insightful look at the society of the day. The characterisation is superb and Ellroy has a good grasp of the period vernacular, meaning that it is easy to lose yourself in the pages. Totally unputdownable.

Yasukuni Shrine

I took advantage of the clear skies to wander over to Yasukuni Shrine today, which is a short walk from Iidabashi station. Somewhat like the Cenotaph in London, it is a shrine to soldiers who have died in action for their country. One noticeable difference is that since twelve prominent war criminals are enshrined here, it is probably the most controversial shrine in the whole of Japan, and as a result it occasionally makes the news nationally and internationally.

The grounds of the shrine are fairly extensive and the buildings are extremely well-cared for, making it an impressive sight, though the replica fighter plane and howitzer in the lobby of the attached museum seem incongruous and are an eerie reminder of the purpose of the shrine. I didn't have time to visit the museum, but I've been told that the explanations with the exhibits add an interesting spin to historical events and that there are some glaring omissions of certain events that remain contentious to this day.

This Is Dedicated To ...

Weldon - Timo Lassy
Park Bench People - Jose James
This Is Dedicated To - Wale Oyejide
A Taste Of Honey - Tubby Hayes Quartet
Blowing Tune - Super*Stars
Afro Texas - Letta Mbulu
Stars - Nostalgia 77 Octet
Going Down For The Last Time - Ronnie Keaton
Million Faces - Contemporary Noise Quintet
Anna's Song - Marvin Gaye

Books: A History of the World In Six Glasses by Tom Standage

Tom Standage's very original book takes a look at six of the world's most popular drinks ~ beer, wine, spirits, coffee, tea and Coca Cola ~ and traces their origins as well as looking at the political and economic impact they had on different eras of human history, going from the Mesopotamian era to the modern day.

The book is very readable and the author tells the story of each drink concisely but succinctly, illustrating just how profoundly important each drink has been at different stages of human history. We find out how the social and scientific advances made in Britain in the 17th and 18th centuries were down to coffee and that the British Empire was largely shaped by tea. There is also an explanation offered for something I've long wondered about when it comes to tea ~ namely why the Chinese and Japanese are predominantly green tea drinkers, but in Europe it's black tea that is the more popular.

Very entertaining and it left me thirsty for more.

Why bother with this school?

An English school in Nakano adopts the brutally honest approach when it comes to

self-assessment. (perhaps not the best choice for Phrase of the Week!)

indigo jam unit @ duo

It's January being the last Monday, that could only mean one place to go as far as I was concerned ~ duo music exchange in Shibuya to see indigo jam unit. The first time I saw them was one year ago for their Tokyo debut, and since then they have certainly grown in confidence. They have also increased in popularity by the looks of things, as there were hardly any tables out this evening, and it was practically standing room only.

The music started with a first set from indigo jam unit, kicking off with 'Adrenaline' from the latest album and then mixing newer tunes with old. Shimi on drums looked like he was really enjoying himself. The first set was about 50 minutes or so and featured several songs from their latest album such as 'Buffalo' and 'Matador', and some older favourites such as '7th Feeling'. Attention then switched to the back of the auditorium and the support artist Tsuji Kosuke on percussion. He was joined on drums by Takeshi Numazawa and between them they drummed up a real storm. I could be wrong, but I get the feeling that many of Tsuji Kosuke's performances are pretty much improvised, and if this is indeed the case, then it's very impressive indeed. The last piece the two played was a very long piece indeed that changed mood and tempo several times before building up to a thunderous climax.

Then, after a short interval, indigo jam unit were back on stage for their second set ~ starting with popular dance tracks 'Sakura' and 'Scene - Cartaincall' and the newer 'Switch'. The next section featured some slower pieces, with 'Ren' and 'Tsui so' from the new album going down well. The last section featured some fast and furious playing with the set being closed out with "2x2" and "Sphinx". After thanking all and sundry involved on the tour, the band were out for a two track encore with "Ka I Ka" and "Palette" and the lights went up shortly after eleven o'clock.

A great night out, as always, and I'm planning to be at their next Tokyo date on the last Monday in May.

Street art in Shibuya

On the side of a club off Dogenzaka

Books: The Angel of History by Bruno Arpaia

Prior to reading 'The Angel of History' I had heard of the name Walter Benjamin, but didn't really know anything about him. A visit to Wikipedia helped give me an idea of who he was, but it's in the pages of this novel that Benjamin the person, rather than Benjamin the German Jewish thinker and writer, comes to life. The novel follows the last years of his life as he tries to flee the looming spectre of the Nazis. In the 1930s he escapes to Paris where he spends most of his time in the company of other writers and intellectuals sitting idly in cafes or reading in libraries. As the threat of war becomes more and more real, Benjamin has to decide whether to stay in Paris or try to escape to safety. It is here that Arpaia paints a picture of Benjamin who was totally at home in his books, but too sickly and ill-equipped to deal with the rigours of real life so that he doesn't act until the very last minute.

At the same time, the novel also tells the story of a (fictitious) young Spanish left-wing militant, Laureano, who fought in the Civil War, and is now on the run from the fascist government. Laureano is a man of action, and his is a story of war, comradeship and passion that contrasts starkly with Benjamin. The two men are from completely different worlds, but are destined to cross paths at some point.

Bruno Arpaia's novel is an impressive work indeed and he does an excellent job of both describing the fears and frustrations that people had to deal with on a daily basis in those times, as well as portraying a sympathetic and life-like image of Benjamin. Very enjoyable indeed, though the translation from the Italian could have been better edited.

'Angelus Novus' by Paul Klee, a painting that was owned by Walter Benjamin. He saw this picture as representing the angel of history, its back to the future while it contemplates the past and the increasing pile of wreckage and ruin that is produced by the catastrophe of history.
Walter Benjamin at work in the Bibliotheque Nationale in Paris, photographed by Gisele Freund.

Imprevisto

Love - Jose James
Forefathers - Marcina Arnold
Imprevisto - Bossa Tres
Deep In The Sand - The Budos Band
West Ganji - Chicago Afrobeat Project
Futebol de bar (Heavy Usker Mix) - Cesar Mariano and CIA
Superstition - Dennis Mobley and Fresh Taste
What Do You See In Her? - Inell Young
Can't Come In - The Congos
Theme from the Ipcress File - John Barry

Full moon through the clouds

Snapped on the way home from work tonight.

Retro porn star hair cuts!

Deep in the heart of Nakano-ku lies an old-fashioned barber shop with the following stylish hairstyles offered on a signboard outside.

'Adult Soft' (moustache and medallion are thrown in free ~ allegedly)

'French Dandy' (a bit more 80s)

Books: Lost In A Good Book by Jasper Fforde

Thursday Next is back for a second installment of adventure after the drama of The Eyre Affair. As this story opens, we find next dealing with the attention and fame that rescuing Jane Eyre brought her and also living happily with her husband, Landen Park-Laine. However, the peace is soon disrupted when a series of weird coincidences seem to be connected with attempts to have her killed. Then her husband disappears, only continuing to exist in Next's memory. On top that, the shady Goliath corporation are hot on her heels, trying to get her to return Jack Schitt from a Poe poem and her father wants her to help save the planet from imminent destruction ~ well, transformation into pink goo. However, will she manage? Well, the only way to find out is to get lost in Fforde's alternative Swindon. As silly as ever and packed full of puns, this is a must for any fans of the series.

Wall near Kagurazaka

A Perfect Day

Million Faces - Contemporary Noise Quintet
It's Gonna Rain - Gentleman June Gardner
All Blues - Miles Davis
The Gigolo - Lee Morgan
A Perfect Day - Bobby Cole
Repatriation, Retribution - Nate Morgan
Question - Jesse Sharps Quintet
Dialed Up - Orgone
Quiet Village - Don Cunningham
Drowndeep:Hula - Maxwell

Books: The Unbearable Lightness of Being by Milan Kundera

I first read this book in 1989 shortly before I took a six-month trip around Eastern Europe in what was a period of rapid change in the region. At the time, I was eager to find out about the history and culture of the region as well as keep up with the events of the times as regime after regime toppled. I remember enjoying the book to the extent that I soon after I bought and read most of Kundera's other novels. When I stumbled across a copy in the Blue Parrot (a secondhand book shop ~ sadly not run by Sidney Greenstreet in a fez) in Takadanobaba I decided to read it again.

The novel centres around four main characters ~ Tomas, a philandering surgeon; his wife, Tereza, a country waitress turned photographer; Sabina, an artist and mistress of Tomas; and Franz, a Swiss lecturer and Sabina's lover. The story that unfolds is set in Czechosloavkia between the Prague Spring in 1968 and the mid-70s. It is a story that deals with the weighty topics of love, sexual desire, political action, the meaning of life and happiness. Kundera uses the German adage 'einmal ist keinmal' (what happens but once may just as well never have happened) to suggest that life is essentially 'light' and ephemeral and it is this lack of weight or purpose that gives the novel its name.

It was interesting to read this book again after a long time, since I was a university student back then and now have much more life experience and maybe now react to it in a different way. Certainly one of my favourite books and maybe I will wait less time before reading it again.

Hokusai and Siebold at the Tokyo-Edo Museum

Sunday I went to Ryogoku to see a Hokusai exhibition, which featured works that are in collections in Holland and France. Most of the works are from Hokusai and his school of artists, featuring scenes from daily life in the Edo period as well as some spectacular landscapes. There are about ten or so works by Phillip von Siebold, a German physician who lived in Dejima, off Nagasaki in the 1820s. As well as documenting the flora and fauna of Japan, he also did some drawings that drew heavily from Hokusai's style.

Though it was an interesting exhibition, it was, like any major exhibition in Japan, an exhausting experience since the place was so packed. You walk at a snail's pace in a line with very little personal space to enjoy the work on display, which is hardly ideal. Better on a weekday I guess.

Street Mural in Ryogoku (detail)

Night time noodle stall - Shinjuku

Fortune Tellers at Shinjuku Station

Sun through the trees

Hatsumode at Hikawa Shrine

In the early part of the New Year, many Japanese people go to a shrine for what is called hatsumode, which is the first visit of the year. They use the occasion to pray for good things in the coming year and also buy an omikuji, which is a small slip of paper with your year's fortune written on it. I went to Hikawa Shrine, duly paid my 100 yen and tried my luck. Some will say it's fate, cynics will say it's like a raffle, but for my 100 yen I pulled out a chu-kichi slip, which means fate has a fairly good year in store for me.

This shrine features this ring of rope and by walking through this three times, you are supposed to ward off evil and stay healthy for the year.

2008 is the Year of the Rat.People tie ema (wooden tablets on which they write their hopes and wishes) or omikuji at a particular place in the shrine's grounds.

Lanterns at the entrance to the shrine at night.

Books: Resurrection Men by Ian Rankin

I've only a read a few of the Rebus novels to date, but I always find them hugely enjoyable. This is the thirteenth in the series and in it we find the St. Leonard's team investigating the murder of an Edinburgh art dealer. Rebus, however, is soon taken off the case after throwing a cup of tea at DCS Templer. For his sins, he is sent off to police college to be retrained with some other recalcitrant officers from the region to learn the benefits of teamwork and cooperation. Rebus soon realises, however, that the members of the group are suspicious of each other and seem more interested in protecting secrets than working together.

As always, Rankin's observations, cultural references and use of witty dialogue ('Do the words "tea", "mug" and "lob" mean anything to you?' 'Tea mug lob? Is that a Cocteau Twins track?' he won a smile from her.) are spot on, all adding to a sense of reality. I haven't actually been to Edinburgh, but have a vision of it from Rankin's books, much like I have a vision of Louisiana from James Lee Burke's Dave Robicheaux books.

On the whole, probably the best of the Rebus books I've read to date.

Afternoon sky

Snapped on my mobile at Heiwa No Mori Koen