Tokyo Underworld tells the true story of Nick Zapetti, an American ex-pat in Tokyo and his colourful and turbulent life in Japan. Initially stationed in Japan for the Occupation period after World War II, Zapetti stayed on after his tour of duty and set up trying to make as much money as he could. Initially involved in the black market and illegal banking, Zapetti eventually went into the restaurant business, opening up the legendary Nicola's in Roppongi, and whilst this was a legitimate business, he was forever involved with organised crime.
Whiting's book is meticulously researched, and Zapetti's story is told in tandem with a social history of the Tokyo that he was involved with. From the post-war black market (in operation just three days after the Japanese surrender in a city lying in ruins), through the pro-wrestling boom of the fifties and the rise of the yakuza in the sixties, Whiting shows us the development of modern Japan. As is probably typical in any post-conflict area, politics, industry and organised crime were very closely linked in the rebuilding of Japan, but what is particularly interesting about Japan is that those close ties persisted through Japan's rebirth and through to the end of the century, and there is no reason to believe that anything has changed in the last decade.
A truly compelling book, Tokyo Underworld has to be one of the best books written about Japan in recent years. I've also noticed that Warner Brothers have bought the film rights to the book, so it'll be interesting to see how this is portrayed on the big screen if it goes into production.
The next stop round on the Yamanote Line from Takadanobaba is Mejiro, a relatively quite stop on the line, and one of only two stops on the line that doesn't connect with any other railway or subway line.
Mejiro Dori is the main thoroughfare that runs in front of the station.
If you go to the right side, you hit the leafy avenue with the Gakushuin University main campus, as well as some other schools or colleges. 
Heading back towards the station and continuing long Mejiro Dori, you come to an area with some shops, cafes and restaurants. A short walk north off the main street through a quiet residential area brings you to Mejiro Garden, a traditional Japanese garden that is free to enter. 
It's a perfect spot to relax in silence for a while, just taking in the view, which at this time of year is very colourful.
Enjoying the view.
Back on Mejiro Dori I had a look at some of the shops, including Mono-Sick-Studio, better then stereo sick, I guess.
Painting on a utilities service box.
Popular looking Italian restaurant ...
... and just upstairs is a reggae and darts bar, going by the name of Denver. Not sure what the connection is, but maybe it's an OK place to go.
Quaint no parking sign.
Artificial flower display outside a 100 yen shop.
Mejiro Dori also boasts its own Japanese sword and armour shop ~ not something you see on every high street.
Walking south from Mejiro Dori past some expensive-looking housing, you eventually come to Otomeyama Park, a fairly wild, but peaceful park with plenty of trees and greenery that is pretty much left to nature. It's probably not what you could call a beautiful park, but it is almost like an oasis of untamed green in a big city. 
On the whole Mejiro was pleasant to wander around, and is probably a nice place to live, though there isn't much to encourage the casual visitor to make many return visits. More of a residential area than a lively hub of activity.
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